A Wooden Sword, Part 2 – Shaping the Grip and Pommel

After my student finished forming the cross-lap joints (see part 1), I asked what kind of hilt they envisioned for their sword. Should the grip be tapered and rounded? Should it end with a ball-shaped pommel? Or should the pommel be carved directly from the sword’s wooden blank?

If the student wants a round, ball-style pommel, I bring out a store-bought maple ball and demonstrate how to drill it with a stepped bit to allow a specialty dowel to pass through and anchor into the end of the grip. We use a Miller dowel and the corresponding stepped drill bit for a clean, secure fit—but a standard dowel or even a long screw and plug can work just as well. I also show them how to flatten one side of the ball so it can sit flush against the end of the handle for gluing.

Before attaching the pommel, we shape the grip itself. Depending on the student’s design choice, the grip can be faceted like a polygon, then either left as-is or further rounded to create a cone-like or barrel-shaped handle. If they want a fully integrated pommel—one carved as a continuation of the grip—I guide them through drawing a series of polygonal transitions and then help them rasp the shape until a natural pommel emerges from the end of the handle.

We use rasps and files for this shaping work, and this stage offers a valuable opportunity to teach safe and effective clamping techniques, as well as how to hold and control shaping tools with consistency and care. These skills are fundamental and will serve the student well in future projects.

Here, the pommel is an integral part of the sword blank and is shaped gradually by following the facets I draw for my students. Some students are proficient enough with rulers and squares to draw the facets accurately.

After the grip and pommel are done and the blade is shaped, we can glue the guard’s parts.

Next time, we’ll move on to shaping the blade—defining its bevels, taper, and tip.